Method of making fabric



Aug. 15, 1944. s 2,355,789

METHOD OF MAKING FABRIC Filed Dec. 30, 1941 I NVENTOR ATTORNEYS.

emc e Aug. 15, 1944 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD or MAKING FABRIC Benjamin s. Faber, New York, N. Y. Application December 30, 1941, Serial No. 424,863

9 Claims.

'I'hisi'nvention relates to a new and improved frieze pile fabric and a new method of producing the same, and has for an object to provide such a fabric in which the loops are woven in a warp-wise direction of warp pile yarn which is passed to and fro in a weft-wise direction over a warp-wise extending gauge or the like, while in the finished fabric, the loops lie and are held in a substantially warp-wise direction.

The invention consists in providing such a fabric wherein the pile loops are formed wtihout the use of any weft-wise extending threads, wires or the like. for supporting the loops as they are formed.

Another object of the invention consists in- Another object consists in providing a method in which the pile warp is woven to and fro over a gauge or the like by leno mechanism, and in which a ground warp is arranged to pass between the leno doup heddles so as to be woven between the binding points of each warp-wise row of pile loops, and in which the other ground warps in the same part of the draft of reed dent are arranged to pass outside of the leno doup heddles and at .either one side or both sides thereof.

extend longitudinally between the points at which alternate loops of each warp-wise row interweave or bind with the wefts, hereinafter referred to as the binding points of the loops, thus tending to prevent distortion or dislodgment of the loops by pulling strains thereon.

Another object consists in providing a method in which the pile warp is woven to and fro over a gauge or the like by leno mechanism, and in whichthe threads are so arranged with respect to the leno doup -and the shedding mechanism that all the ground warp threads in any one part of the draft of one dent of the loom reed pass either on one side or on both sides of the leno doup heddles.

Another object consists in providing a method whereby the pile warp is woven to and fro over a gauge or the like by leno mechanism, and in which the pile warp is bound at opposite sides of the gauge or the like by alternate wefts as distinguished from successive wefts.

Another object consists in providing a method whereby the pile warp is woven to and fro over a gauge or the like by leno mechanism, and. in which a ground warp is arranged to pass between the leno doup heddles so as to be woven between the binding points of each warp-wise row of pile loops.

Another object is to weave warp-wise frieze pile fabric regular or ofiset on single shuttle automatic looms without movable gauges and without weft-wise extending wires or supporting threads for the loops.

A further object consists in providing certain improvements in the form, construction, and arrangement of the elements of the fabric, and in the steps followed in the method of production, whereby the above named and other objects may effectively be attained.

Practical embodiments of means and method for producing this fabric and of two weaves thereof are represented in the accompanying drawing, in which 'Fig. 1 represents a detail side view of certain loom elements and threads constituting part of the draft through one dent of a loom reed;

Fig. 2 represents a detail back plan view of a portion of fabric made by the weaving procedure illustrated in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 represents a view similar to Fig. 1 but showing an additional ground warp thread in position to be woven between the binding points of the row of pile loops of a fast pile weave;

Fig. 4 represents adetail back plan view of a portion of fabric made by the weaving procedure illustrated in Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 represents a back plan view showing the fabric resulting from the weaving procedure illustrated in Fig. l but with an additional ground warp thread woven between the binding points of the row of pile loops, and

Fig. 6 represents a side view of the fabric as illustrated in Fig. 5.

In weaving frieze pile fabrics, it has been customary to use gauges disposed warp-wise or longitudinally in the loom, which gauges support permanent or removable weft-wise threads, over which threads the warp pile yarn is passed to form loops of a height predetermined by the height of the gauges, the pile yarn, of course, being also interwoven with the ground of the fabric. In an alternative procedure, pile wires are inserted weft-wise and warp pile loops are formed thereover, the wires being drawn out after the formation of such loops.

According to my invention, the use of the said supporting weft threads or wires is entirely obviated, and the warp pile yarn is woven in such a relationship to the gauges and the ground of the fabric that the resulting pile loops, though woven to and fro over gauges with a motion that includes weft-wise as well as warp-wise travel, are definitely positioned and held in the finished material'in a warp-wise direction. Furthermore, the loops are so arranged with respect to certain of the threads that they strongly resist distortion or dislodgment such, for instance, as the rlmning" which is a characteristic defect of frieze materials under certain conditions of wear.

In the accompanying drawing which includes representations of apparatus suitable for carrying out my invention there are shown, for the sake of clarity, only those parts to which reference' need particularly be made, because the other associated parts are well understood by those versed in this branch of the art as to form, construction, arrangement and operations.

With reference to Fig. 1 of the drawing, a fixed gauge of any well known or approved form is denoted by l and may have its rear portion carried in a fixed heddle rod (not shown) supported by a cross bar or other appropriate element forming part of the loom frame in a well known manner, while its front end extends through a dent of the reed (not shown) to support the warp pile loops as hereinafter set forth. It will be understood that a series of such gauges are arranged in the loom, with the gauges extending in a warp-wise direction and being spaced slightly in a weftwise direction; the height of the gauges being selected according to the predetermined height of the pile loops in the finished fabric.

Two ground warps are illustrated and marked 2 and 3, which ground warps are threaded respectively through heddles 4 and 5; the heddles being connected and operated in any suitable manner for the purpose of shedding the said ground warp threads so that they may be interwoven with the weft threads, as is common practice.

The pile yarn 8 is led from a beam or the like over guide rod 1 and through the eye 8 in the head of a doup needle which has arms 9,. ID that may have the usual spring support or be otherwise suitably connected for operation, which arms are arranged to lie between the members I I, I2 and l3, H of the two doup heddles which are preferably of the standard metallic form commonly used in leno weaving; the said members of the said heddles being interlaced, as is usual, indicated at points l5- and It. This interconnection of the needle with its doup heddles is such that, when either of said heddles is moved downwardly, it will pull the needle downwardly against the action of the latters spring support,

all of which is well understood in this art. This construction is old and well known in the art and is shown and described in the patent to Jacob Kaufman #1,037,l51, dated August 27, 1912.

The parts or elements shown in Fig. 1 of the drawing represent part of the draft through a single reed dent, and it will be observed that the gauge I and pile yarn 8 both pass between the doup heddles ll, l2 and I3, it: while the ground warp threads 2 and 3 all pass outside the said doup heddles, with the ground warp 2 on one side of said heddles and the ground warp 3 on the other side thereof.

The pile yam 6 is controlled by the leno doup I the said needle is in its elevated position, theground warps are shedded and another weft is shot through. In the position shown by Fig. 1, this intermediate weft l1 binds with the ground warps 2 and 3 only while the pile yarn 6 is at the top of the gauge. Thereupon the doup heddle l3, it moves downwardly carrying with it the doup needle and the pile yarn 6 to a lowered position in front of the gauge I as shown in Fig. 1 of the drawing. In this P sition of the pile yarn, another weft I1 is shot through to hold the pile at the lower front side of the gauge. Continued operation of the parts as just described brings about a continued repetition of the same interwoven relation of the fabric elements and it will be seen that each pile loop thus formed is secured at opposite sides of the gauge by alternate wefts, hereinabove referred to as the binding points, so that the pile yarn 6 forming the loops passes under a weft ll at the front of the gauge, then over the gauge and over a weft, then under the next weft at the rear of the gauge, then back over the gauge and over a weft, then under a weft at the front of the gauge, and so on.

The mode of operation just described tends to ground warps is indicated by Fig. 2'. While I' have illustrated the said ground warp threads as arranged one on one side of the doup heddles and one on the other side, it should be understood that both of the ground warps could be arranged on one side of the doup heddles in each part of the draft of each dent of the loom reed with the resultant fabric having the same structure as is disclosed in Fig. 2, i. e., two ground warp threads between each adjacent pair of pile yarns. It will also be understood that I could increase or decrease the number of ground warps employed in each part of the draft of each dent to conform to predetermined fabric designs. a

With reference to the form shown in Figs 3 and 4 of the drawing, the elements and their operations are the same as shown and described in connection with Figs. 1 and 2 except that a fast pile weave is'being illustrated and an additional ground warp, denoted by 18, is provided and threaded through a heddle Is. This ground warp l8 passes between the doup heddles II, I! and l3, It in substantial parallelism with the gauge l and is shedded and interwoven with the weft threads like the other ground warps. However,

draft of the debt with the said ground warp. Figures and -6 clearly show the said ground warp II in back and then in front of successive lower bights or bends of the pile yarn, and is woven over the wefts under which the pile weaves or binds. While it is preferred to have. the said ground warp 18 pass over the wefts in opposition to the pile yarn, the said warp l8 could, if desired, be shedded so as to pass under the said wefts with the pile yarn. The warp l8 could also, if desired, be shedded in any relationship to the wefts and without regard to the binding of the pile.

This relationship of the-threads is also well shown in the back plan view of Fig. 5: and it will be .clear that, as a result of this'warp-wise passage of the ground warp l8. and all its counterparts in the fabric, centrally between the bind; ing points of the warp-wise rows of pile loops, a frictional binding effect is exerted on the loops where they interweave with the fabric ground so as greatly to increase the capacity of the loops to resist distortion, dislodgment or running. While the primary function of the said extra ground warp iii in the fabric is as just described, it also assists in maintaining the warp-wise positioning of the pile loop and, of course, adds strength to the fabric ground as a whole.,

It should be stated that this invention is adaptable to many difierent loop pile weave constructions, and that the number and arrangement of warp and weft threads illustrated and described is chiefly for the purpose of illustrating apractical and desired embodiment of my I invention in a suitable weave construction. It

has been chosen to show one form of loose pile loop weave as shown in Figs. 1, 2, 5 and 6, because, as previously indicated, an important feature of the invention resides in the fact that the arrangement and interlacing of the threads, particularly in the form of the invention shown in Figs. 5 and 6 of the drawing, tends to prevent the distortion or dislodgment of the loops by the pulling or drawing of them out of or away from the ground. The invention is not only appli cable to other forms of loose pile weaves, with variations in warp and weft number, arrange ment and interweaving, but it is also adaptable to different forms of fast pile weaves as shown in one form in Figs. 3 and 4 in which the pile yarn is so interlacedwith the. weft threads as to tend to prevent the pile loops from pulling out or away from the ground or losing height. In all these weaves an important novel feature of the invention resides in the definite, precise, and permanent warp-wise disposition of the pile loops and in their resistance to distortion or dislodgment.

It may additionally be noted that, by varying the size or count and number of threads, and by changin the height of the gauges or using gauges of differing heights, the width and height of all or some of the pile loops can be varied with corresponding modification in the surface effect. Likewise, the size, material composition, visual finish and twist of the yarns or threads may be changed or modified to suit the requirements in hand, as natural and artificial yarns, including both animal and vegetable fibers or filaments, may be employed to advantage under different circumstances. Furthermore, while I have shown the weaving operation in connection with fixed or stationary gauges, it should be noted that the I assumes formed by the pile yarn in the same part of the method may also be carried outwith movable or shedding gauges.

It will be understood that various changes may {be resorted to in the form, construction, ar-

rangement, and material of the various elements, and in the steps followed, without departing from the spirit and scope of my invention; hence I do not intend to be limited to the details herein shown and described except asthey 'may be included in the claims.

What I claim is:

1. A method ofv producing loop pile fabric including drawing warp pile threads through doup needles and between doup heddles arrangedto actuate the needles, locating gauges between the doup heddles, drawing ground warp threads through heddles and outside of the doup heddies, drawing additional ground warp threads through heddles and between the doup heddlesin line with the gauges, shedding the warp pile threads to and fro across the gauges, shedding the ground warp threads alongside the gauges, shedding, beneath the gauges, an additional ground warp thread for each respective pile thread, and inserting wefts to interweave with all the ground warp threads and the bends of the warp pile threads beneath the gauges.

2. A method of producing loop pile fabric including drawing warp pile threads through doup needles and between doup heddles arranged to actuate the needles, locating gauges between the doup heddles, drawing ground warp threads through heddles and at both sides of the doup heddles, drawing additional ground warp threads through heddles and between the doup heddles in line with the gauges, shedding the warp pile threadsto and fro across the gauges, shedding the ground warp threads alongside the gauges, shedding beneath the gauges the additional ground warp threads for their respective pile threads, and inserting wefts to interweave with all the ground warp threads and the bends of the warp pile threads beneath the gauges.

3. A method of producing regular and offset loop pile fabric on single shuttle automatic looms without the use of weft-wise extending wires or threads and using stationary gauges instead of movable gauges, said method comprising interweaving ground warp threads including additional ground threads and weft threads, interweaving warp pile threads under weft threads, over gauges, between ground warp threads, and on alternate sides of their respective additional ground warp threads.

4. A method of producing loop fabric including interweaving ground warp threads including additional ground threads and weft threads, interweaving warp pile threads under weft threads and over gauges and between ground warp threads, and on alternate sides of their respec-- tive additional ground warp threads.

5. A method of producing loop pile fabric including interweaving ground warp threads including additional ground threads and weft threads, interweaving warp pile threads under alternate weft threads and over gauges and intermediate weft threads and between. ground warp threads, and on alternate sides of their respective additional ground warp threads.

6. A method of producing loop pilefabric inrespective additional ground warp threads; which are also interwoven with the weft threads.

7. A method of producing loop pile fabric including interweaving ground warp threads including additional ground threads and weft threads, interweaving warp pile threads under alternate weft threads and over gauges and in-' termediate weft threads and between ground warp threads, and on alternate sides of their respective additional warp threads which are also interwoven with the weft threads.

8. A method of producing loop pile fabric including interweaving ground warp threads including additional ground ,threads and weft threads, interweaving warp pile threads under weft threads and over gauges and between ground warp threads, and on alternate sides of their respective additional ground warp threads, I

said additional ground warp threads being woven overweft threads oppositely to the pile threads.

9. A method of producing loop pile fabric including interweaving ground warp threads including additional ground threads and weft threads, interweaving warp pile threads under alternate weft threads and over gauges and intermediate weft threads and between ground warp threads, and on alternate Sides of their respective additional ground warp threads, said additional ground warp threads being woven over weft threads oppositely to the pile threads.

' BENJAMIN S. FABER. 

